| By Tracy Holleran, September 1, 2006 |

Many of us like the idea of sharing a meal al fresco with family and friends, but simply do not have the energy to cook for such an outing. When your neighbors call to ask if you want to join them at the beach for an impromptu dinnertime picnic, you probably want to say “yes.” Everyone loves a picnic, and the beach on a summer evening is one of Fairfield’s best features. But then it hits you: Having a picnic requires preparing and packing a picnic basket! You could do take-out, and though the words “take-out” conjure up images of cold pizza and fast-food burgers, that’s not exactly what you had in mind for your picnic. You were thinking more along the lines of a red- and white-checkered picnic basket, filled with overstuffed sandwiches, colorful salads, rich chocolate brownies, and freshly-squeezed lemonade. But who has time to prepare and pack such an elaborate meal to bring to the beach? Thankfully for Fairfielders, a number of local markets and stores are now carrying a large selection of prepared foods for your convenience. I chose to visit and investigate three markets, The Pantry, Health in a Hurry, and A&S Italian Fine Foods. At each of these establishments the food is made fresh daily, on-site, and is conveniently packed into containers that are ideal for taking along on your picnic.
If one of Fairfield’s many beaches is your picnic destination of choice, you may want to pick up your meal at The Pantry or Health in a Hurry, both conveniently located on the Post Road in Fairfield Center.
the pantry
1580 post road, 259-0400
thepantry.net
monday-friday 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.
saturday 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.
closed sunday
The Pantry, which opened in 2003, is a specialty food market and full-service deli, with a made-to-order salad area and a wide selection of prepared meals-to-go. It also has fresh produce, a butcher shop, and a pastry counter with a wonderful selection of sweet indulgences.
The menu at The Pantry changes seasonally, but also carries some staples that can be found year-round, such as grilled vegetables, “Raised Right” Chicken Salad, and Sesame Noodles. Chef/owner Andy Rolleri, owner Thierry Le Mieur and Chef Kirsten Guldbrandsen stress that what sets them apart is their commitment to using the highest quality ingredients in all of their prepared foods. No corners are cut, and everything, right down to the salad dressings and the stock used for their homemade soups, are made in-house from scratch. This translates to more time in the kitchen for the chefs, but a top-quality product for customers.
In summertime, the very popular take-out cold salads at The Pantry are anything but run-of-the-mill. The tangy Shrimp, White Bean and Fennel Salad with Arugula and Lemon is one of the store’s best sellers. This light, healthy dish can be eaten as an entrée or a side dish, depending on your appetite. If you prefer to stick with the basics, The Pantry carries traditional potato salad, macaroni salad, coleslaw, and fresh fruit salad in the deli. Also at the deli counter are made-to-order and specialty sandwiches and wraps, including a daily pannini special. Picnickers can choose from a variety of sandwich or wrap combinations such as Grilled Chicken with Fresh Mozzarella, Roasted Peppers and Baby Arugula, or Honey Maple Ham with Swiss, Tomato and Honey Mustard, or they may choose their own ingredients and bread type.
When asked about the “ideal” beach picnic menu, the chefs both agreed that the Soy & Ginger Marinated Flank Steak (served at room temperature) was a must. Chef Andy likes to pair the flank steak with their Roasted Corn, Anduille Sausage and Bell Pepper Salad (served with a cilantro-lime dressing) or the Wheat Berry Salad. Wheat berries, which are whole-wheat kernels with only the hull removed, are an excellent source of fiber and a tasty whole-grain alternative to white rice or pasta. In this colorful salad, wheat berries are combined with grape tomatoes, almonds, dried cranberries and basil, and then tossed in a lime, honey, and Dijon mustard dressing. Chef Kirsten feels the perfect side dish for your picnic is the Jicama & Cucumber Salad. Jicama (pronounced HIC-uh-muh), is a root vegetable with a crisp, white, potato-like inside. The flavors are reminiscent of an apple, and are mild but sweet. Paired with fresh cucumbers, bell peppers and fresh herbs, this salad is a refreshing, light, summer salad for any summer get-together.
There was certainly no disagreement on the ideal dessert for your picnic. “Something that won’t melt in the heat,” suggests Chef Andy. “Andy’s Best” Brownies or the Apricot-Oatmeal Bars are perfect endings to a meal, and will hold up well in your picnic basket for hours. If bar cookies are not your thing, there are over a dozen different other cookies to choose from, including Pecan and Brown Sugar Shortbread cookies, Trail Mix Cookies, or traditional Molasses Cookies, to name a few. The Pantry also carries a wide variety of bottled drinks. In addition to popular brands of soda, they include organic sodas, old-fashioned sodas, iced tea, premium waters, and the Naked line of juice smoothies among their selections.
Pick-up a Picnic
health in a hurry
1891 post road, 254-5777 healthinahurry.net
monday-friday 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
saturday 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
closed sunday
Health in a Hurry opened in its current location in 2004, after 10 years as a health-food meal delivery service. Tucked on a back lot of the Post Road (across the street from Rawley’s hot dog stand), it is more of a destination location for those “in the know” than one that gets a lot of foot traffic. However, once you discover it, you’ll surely become a fan. It is one of Fairfield’s best-kept secrets. Sue Cadwell, a chef/owner of Health in a Hurry describes it as “gourmet organic vegetarian food to go.” Chef Sue has been studying and cooking with organic ingredients for twenty years, so she knows a thing or two about health food. Luckily for us, she also knows how to prepare it so deliciously that you forget you’re eating health food at all!
Health in a Hurry’s tiny storefront consists of a small retail space and a bright, open kitchen where chefs are busy at work preparing the all-natural foods that fill the refrigerator cases on the other side of the counter. Items such as wraps, salads, and other vegetarian dishes featuring beans, grains and/or vegetables are packed in single- and double-serving-sized containers, ready to pop into your picnic basket or cooler.
The menu changes every few months, according to the season’s bounty. Developed over time, every item was given a “test run” as a daily special, and only earned a spot on the menu if it received the customers’ stamp of approval. Chef Sue calls it the “back by popular demand” approach. Despite changing seasonally, one menu item and perfect picnic take-along that remains constant is the Black Bean Mexicana Salad. This dish pairs roasted vegetables with black beans, and is then tossed in a tangy vinaigrette made with lime juice and jalapeno peppers. It holds its own as an entree, or can be served as a side dish. Summertime favorites include the Mediterranean Tofu Salad, which like a Greek salad, features cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, red onions, and olives, but adds marinated tofu, which replaces the feta typically found in traditional Greek salads. If tofu isn’t to your liking, try a wrap made with hummus, roasted red peppers, red onion and romaine lettuce, or a fresh veggie wrap with a tasty herb spread. Can’t decide which wrap to try? Get a half portion of one type, half of another. Wraps are available whole, or in halves for those wanting to mix it up a bit, or people with smaller appetites.
Green salads are another great picnic-friendly option, and the Asian Green Salad is a favorite among regulars. It combines a variety of fresh, seasonal greens with sesame seeds, ginger, rice vinegar, and tamari (a richly-flavored Japanese-style soy sauce). Health in a Hurry’s menu also includes the Crisp Green Salad, made with “whatever is in season and fresh that week” plus chick peas, carrots and red cabbage, and the Spinach Salad which has tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, mushrooms, red onion, and baked tofu for an extra crunch.
Just because Health in a Hurry serves healthy food, that doesn’t mean there aren’t desserts. One of their most popular cookies is the Ginger Crisp, which combines oats with ginger, cinnamon, molasses and maple syrup for a sweet but spicy treat. There is even something for chocolate lovers; the Taralaura Chocolate Krispies. These delectable clusters use unsweetened chocolate, carob chips, brown rice cereal, and nuts to create a chewy delight that is guilt-free. Health in a Hurry also carries beverages for your picnic basket, including mineral water and the “Honest Tea” line of iced drinks.
a&s italian fine foods
2079 black rock turnpike, 576-1600 asfinefoods.com
Tuesday-Friday 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Saturday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Sunday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Closed Monday
Lake Mohegan is another favorite picnicking spot in Fairfield, and the northern end of town has an equal number of take-out options where you can fill your picnic basket en route. My favorite is A&S Italian Fine Foods on Black Rock Turnpike. Over the years, A&S has become somewhat of an institution in Fairfield. It opened in Stratford in 1985 and relocated to its current location in 1993. Owner Carmine Battimelli, however, has been in the food business for almost thirty years.
A&S is a specialty Italian grocery, butcher shop, and bakery, but also offers a full-service deli and prepared foods to go. The deli features cold sandwiches packed with any combination of cold-cuts, cheeses, and vegetables, or a large selection of Italian hot sandwiches like Eggplant Parmesan and Sausages & Peppers. All sandwiches are made to order, so you can choose your favorite fillings on the spot. If you are looking for a lighter option, or something tasty to go alongside your deli sandwiches, try one of A&S’ delicious prepared salads. A great vegetarian option is the Chick Pea and Cous Cous Salad, which uses chopped red peppers, celery and parsley to create a light, summery dish. For those of you who want something traditionally Italian, the Broccoli Rabe and Sausage Salad is a winner. Broccoli Rabe is a vegetable that has florets similar to broccoli, but is actually part of the cabbage family. It’s sharp taste pairs well with hot and sweet sausages, and when tossed with garlic and olive oil, the result is a wonderfully flavorful salad that will add a little pizzazz to your picnic.
A&S also carries a number of items that are perfect snacks or starters for your picnic, like the Prosciutto Bread, Focaccia, or any of the stuffed breads including broccoli and cheese, spinach and cheese, or sausage and cheese. Cut any of these specialties into thick slices and even the kids will devour it! Another snacking option is the Smoked Mozzarella “sandwiches.” A unique take on the traditional Caprese Salad (tomato, basil and fresh mozzarella), these bite-sized snacks require no utensils and are perfect to pop into your cooler. Basil and sun-dried tomatoes are layered between two layers of the smoked mozzarella forming adorable little sandwiches that are not only delicious, but make a beautiful presentation. If you love bruschetta, grab a loaf of Italian bread (brought in fresh daily from New York City), slice it up, and top it with A&S’ prepared Bruschetta Topping, available in the refrigerator case. This tomato-based concoction looks like freshly made salsa, but the flavor is all Italian.
Carmine has several suggestions for your summer picnic menu. If your picnic spot has a barbeque area, he suggests a simple, satisfying menu starring baby back ribs, which are precooked at A&S and simply need to be gently reheated. Add a Mediterranean Pasta Salad (penne pasta with grilled veggies, arugula, feta, and a white balsamic vinaigrette), a selection of mixed olives, a loaf of fresh Italian bread and a variety of cookies from the bakery counter. Don’t forget the beverages—A&S also carries a full line of sodas, iced teas, French lemonades, and Italian waters.
A&S prides itself on “making lives easier” by offering a wide variety of prepared foods which customers can “come in and grab after a long day.” Carmine feels with a picnic from A&S you can’t go wrong. He says, “the quality of our product is superior, everything is fresh, and all of our customers get personal attention.”
Whether your final destination is the beach, the lake, or somewhere in between, make it easy on yourself and stop by one of these establishments to pick up a perfect, effortless summer picnic.