Photo By: Susie Cushner

Today, with the availability of high-speed transportation, much of what we eat travels an average 1,500 miles before it reaches our table. The result is a multi-faceted problem that not only affects local farmers, but also has an impact on our health, the environment, and even the economy. Consequently, the movement to eat locally has become a lifes mission for many people, including local farmers and renowned chef, Michel Nischan. Environmentalists and economists are weighing in on the subject, too, as the benefits of eating locally continue to be revealed.
why should we eat locally?

When we go to the grocery store, we may not think much about where that bag of grapes began its life. Chances are good to excellent that they were grown in another country, perhaps even in another hemisphere. Why is this a problem? Well, the first issue is a health concern. Ripe, freshly picked produce is full of nutrients. However, in the time it takes for conventionally distributed food to reach your table, many of those nutrients can be lost. In addition, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not hold other countries to the same safety standards that are required of domestic farmers. Considering the fact that much of our imported food comes from developing countries where the free use of pesticides is more common, and the irrigation water quality is questionable, it is hard to know if that food is really safe. (This is not even taking into account all of the contaminants the food may come in contact with on its trip to the store.) When you consider that only about 1% of the imported food regulated by the FDA is ever inspected, you certainly have cause for concern.

The second issue is environmental in nature. Think about the amount of fuel needed to transport that bunch of grapes all those miles, over land and sea. Each day, the United States receives approximately 25,000 shipments of imported food, from more than 100 different countries. Multiply that number by 365, and the numbers are staggering. So, although the environmentally conscious consumer may drive a hybrid car to the supermarket and use green shopping bags, by purchasing all their produce from imported sources, the negative impact on the environment is still hugely significant.

Eating locally is also good for Connecticuts economy. A recent study found that for every dollar you spend locally, twice that amount is generated for the local economy. It is likely that much of this money will be reinvested in our area, stimulating the local market. In addition, farmers profit when able to sell their harvest directly to consumers. By eliminating the so-called middleman, growers more than quadruple their profits. More money in the local growers pockets also translates into the preservation of farmland, which is, in turn, good for the environment. If the farmers can actually make a living growing food, they will be more likely to continue doing so, thereby protecting open spaces and farmland from being developed.

If these reasons arent enough to sell you on the importance of eating locally, perhaps this will: locally produced food is simply fresher and more flavorful. In order for imported produce to look appealing to consumers (like the berries or tomatoes available in winter), it is usually harvested long before it ripens. Once in the States, the produce is force-ripened with ethylene gas, which gives it the appearance of being freshly picked. While this process gives the produce great color, the taste, which is more difficult to simulate, is significantly compromised. When fruit and vegetables ripen naturally, the flavor they develop is inimitable.

supporting the cause
Michel Nischan, chef at The Dressing Room: A Homegrown Restaurant and founder of the Westport Farmers Market

Photo By: Scott Benton

Fairfield Winter Market, is perhaps the most notable Fairfielder supporting the movement to eat locally. As the product of a Midwestern farming family, Nischan spent his summers feeding pigs and slopping stalls, but more importantly, establishing a connection to food and the way it is produced. Over the years, as a chef, activist, and parent of five (two of whom have juvenile diabetes), he devoted himself to learning about all aspects of food, from how it is grown to the huge impact it has on human health. When my son was diagnosed with juvenile diabetes, it blew the door open for me, he states. A revelation came about human health and the environment, and how they collide. All signs seemed to point back to his farming roots, his lifelong advocacy of organic and non-pesticide farming, and his local surroundings in Fairfield County.

Nischan and his wife Lori began by transforming a quarter-acre plot behind their Fairfield home into an organic garden. The entire family got involved in planting, caring for, and harvesting the backyard farm. The garden has influenced the kids tremendously, states Nischan. I really want to do for my kids what my mom did for me, he continues. She taught me how to cook and gave me my connection to food. The garden was a start for his own family, but Nischans vision was broader and more far-reaching.

It was during an auspicious conversation with Nell Newman, daughter of Paul Newman, and developer of Newmans Own Organics, that Nischans ideas began to take shape. Ms. Newman mentioned that her father was interested in opening a restaurant behind the Westport Country Playhouse. She wanted me to either talk him into it, or out of it, he recalls. When the two men met, they discovered they shared the same beliefs about food and community. Paul really wanted to re-establish the sense of American community that he grew up with, which seems to have been lost, Nischan explains. The concept of a restaurant supporting local and organic farmers, and a public farmers market seemed to be a perfect way to put into practice the beliefs that they both held so dear.

In 2006, the Westport Farmers Market opened behind the Westport Country Playhouse while the restaurant was still under construction. It began with 14 local producers selling freshly picked produce, meat, dairy, eggs, artisanal breads, maple syrup, and flowers. Since that time, the market has expanded to include vendors selling local shellfish, teas, and poultry, including Thanksgiving turkeys. Katherine Dyer, Project Director for Wholesome Wave Farmers Markets (the name under which Nischans organization operates), says the market continues to grow each year. This year, I expect more diversification into prepared foods and foods that can be consumed onsite. She adds, We are always looking for new vendors, and Im still on the hunt for more fish and locally produced butter!

In the fall of 2006, the restaurant construction was completed and The Dressing Room: A Homegrown Restaurant, opened to rave reviews. It [the restaurant] embodies all of the things I believe in, states Nischan. It was an instant hit with both locals and foodies from far and wide, who considered it to be a destination restaurant. In addition to using locally-produced food to create its inspired bill of fare, sidebars on the menu connect diners with the origins of their food, and give a nod to local farms. The entry describing the Millstone Mix Salad reads, Right nearby in Wilton, Betsy and Jesse Finkalong with renowned farmer, Annie Farrellhave created an Eden of organic farming that couldnt be closer to home. We use Millstone organic lettuces and vegetables in nearly half of our menu items. Naturally, the menu changes throughout the year, exposing diners to the wide array of local growers each season.

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