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Sundays in Springtime: A Return to the Family Table


By Tracy Holleran, June 1, 2008


Marc Lippman, chef and owner of Fraiche in Greenfield Hill, prefers grilled salmon on a Sunday in the spring.
Marc Lippman, chef and owner of Fraiche in Greenfield Hill, prefers grilled salmon on a Sunday in the spring.
Photo By: Joshua Allen
For many families, eating dinner together brings to mind a scene from Mission Impossible. Between demanding work schedules, long commutes, and kids’ afterschool activities, gathering the entire clan around the table for a meal can be a daunting task. Most people have heard, by now, of the benefits that arise from a family meal. And, fortunately, it seems as though many of them are making an effort to see that it happens. A recent study conducted by Columbia University shows that in the past nine years, the percentage of families eating together five or more times per week has risen more than 10 percent (from 47% in 1998 to 59% in 2007). [Report, “The Importance of Family Dinners IV,” The National Center on Addiction and Substance Abuse, Columbia University, September 2007.] This is good news, especially for kids. Children who reported eating frequently with their families (at least 5 times per week) were significantly less likely to smoke cigarettes, abuse alcohol or prescription drugs, or use illegal drugs. They also were more likely to have better grades in school. If you’re looking to start spending more mealtimes together, consider starting with the day when there’s no school, no meetings, and fewer commitments: Sunday.

The customary “Sunday dinner” has a long history, dating back to the Industrial Revolution in England. Each Sunday morning, a large cut of beef, lamb, or pork would be placed in the oven to cook while the family went to church. Because these meats took many hours to cook, and could be left unattended until the family returned, the “Sunday roast” became a weekly tradition. The roast was usually accompanied by potatoes and whatever vegetables were in season at the time. Sunday dinner leftovers were then stretched into other meals throughout the week, such as sandwiches, soups, and casserole-type dishes like Shepherd’s Pie.

While some Americans consider it a tradition from times past, for many, Sunday dinners with family are still an integral part of life. The menu varies by family. For some, it is an elaborate Italian-American feast, complete with pasta and the “Sunday gravy,” while others opt for a roasted chicken with potatoes, or even a big pot of chili and cornbread. For most families, it is mainly about simply being together. Brenda Steele of Fairfield states, “On Sundays, our tradition is to eat in the dining room. No matter what we eat, it’s always in the dining room!” Jessica Gerber, also of Fairfield, says that sometimes Sundays are the only time when her active family of five is all around the table at dinnertime. “For us, it’s about eating a ‘real’ meal together, usually some sort of roast in the winter and steaks on the grill in summertime. No mac & cheese or chicken nuggets! There’s a tablecloth on the table, and we use our good plates.”

At the home of Marc Lippman, the chef/owner of one of Fairfield’s newest restaurants, Fraiche, Sunday dinners are extra special. Since it is one of the only nights he is not at the restaurant, he and his wife Karen, and their two young children, Max (age 5) and Jack (age 2), sit around the dining room table for their weekly family meal. “Because I’m cooking all week long at the restaurant, convenience is key for me at home,” states Lippman. Especially in the warmer weather, he tends to cook Sunday dinners entirely on the grill, to facilitate a quick and easy clean-up. “I usually make steaks or grilled fish, like salmon. My five year old loves salmon.” Paired with a salad, and perhaps a grilled, seasonal vegetable, like asparagus (another one of Max’s favorites), Lippman considers it a “simple, outdoor version of a one-pot meal.”
Photo By: Arekmalang/Dreamstime.com

When asked to describe a favorite springtime Sunday meal, he reiterates that simplicity is important and encourages home cooks to take advantage of the spring weather and use the outdoor grill. To prepare his ideal meal, Marc starts by grilling a large fillet of Wild King Salmon, which is in season each spring. “I like it prepared very simply, but to make it a little more special, you can top it with a charred tomato vinaigrette.” Fresh tomatoes are easily charred on the grill, and are then transferred to a blender, to which Lippman adds lime juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper. The bright red color of the vinaigrette makes for a beautiful presentation when poured over the fish, and is a perfect centerpiece for a Sunday dinner.

On the side, Lippman likes to serve balsamic-grilled vegetables. In keeping with the season, he favors radicchio, red onions, and asparagus alongside the grilled salmon. Brushing the vegetables with olive oil and balsamic vinegar before grilling allows them to nicely caramelize over the heat, and gives great flavor to the finished dish. When it is time for dessert, Lippman again turns to the outdoors: grilled golden pineapple with a touch of butter. Grilling fruit concentrates the natural sugars and renders it soft and sweet, creating a healthy and delicious finish to Sunday dinner. If you are so inclined, Lippman suggests serving the grilled pineapple with homemade granita. Granita, which resembles shaved Italian ice, can be put together in a matter of minutes the day prior, and then frozen overnight. At the restaurant, Lippman likes to make a Zinfandel and Star Anise Granita, but notes that using any fresh, seasonal fruit like watermelon for your granita will also guarantee a delicious result.

Using seasonal ingredients seems to be in Lippman’s blood. While he was growing up on Long Island in the 1970s and 80s, his parents were mavericks when it came to using only organic, seasonal foods in their home. They were extremely health-conscious and favored olive oil over butter, didn’t buy bacon because of the nitrates, and kept processed foods out of their home. “At the time, I didn’t really like the fact that we didn’t have things like Hostess Cupcakes in the house, but it obviously had a big, positive impact on me,” Lippman admits. Sunday dinners from his childhood typically consisted of rotisserie chickens, stripped of their skin and covered in fresh herbs from their garden; or grilled whole fish, simply prepared with olive oil, salt, pepper, and perhaps a squeeze of lemon. Today, his restaurant echoes this concept of simplicity, with an ingredient-focused, market-driven menu that changes each season. Sunday menus at the Lippman residence are no exception.
With the tremendous spring bounty, now is the time to head to the grocery store or local farmers’ market and load up on fresh ingredients for Sunday dinner. Perhaps you’ll be inspired to create something new and different this Sunday; or maybe you’ll simply order in, but eat in the dining room. What’s most important is gathering the entire family around the table.

Tracy Holleran is a freelance writer and owner of The Secret Ingredient Cooking School. She lives in Fairfield and can be found at TheSecretIngredientOnline.com.



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